at the house

Turquoise water beneath limestone cliffs on the Gulf of Orosei

On the water

Sardinia, Barefoot

Caves, the most charming village, and long lunches on the water every day.

Words and photographs by Lucy Cuneo · 4 minutes · End of summer, 2026

Where to stay

We started at Su Gologone, in the hills above the Gulf of Orosei on Sardinia’s east coast. We took a day boat out along the coast, and climbed up into the caves in the limestone cliffs, which go back thousands of years, to long before Christ.

Limestone cliffs dropping into turquoise water The bow of the day boat nosing toward a cave in the cliffs
The day boat, and the caves.
The pool at Su Gologone, whitewashed walls and olive trees A whitewashed corridor with a beamed ceiling and a striped rug
Su Gologone.
A pink swimsuit and a stack of necklaces on a turquoise cushion A white shirt open over a pink bikini, gold charms layered at the neck

Then we headed up the coast and stayed at Petra Segreta, which sits just above the most charming village, San Pantaleo, famous for its markets and shops. We ate in town, raced to the market Thursday morning, cruised down to the water and took boats out for long lunches every single day, around La Maddalena, Tavolara and Molara.

A white eyelet dress on the way to the market A crate of peaches at the market
Thursday morning, San Pantaleo.
A stone-edged pool above the hills at Petra Segreta Steps into a clear turquoise pool
Petra Segreta.

“What is today?”

Bread and cheese at a table on the back of a boat, the sea behind A pizza with prosciutto and basil
Long lunches on the water.
A plate of pasta with tomato sauce on a blue tablecloth A coupe of ice cream beside an espresso on a blue cloth
A bottle of Ichnusa and a glass of beer on a wooden table A cold bottle and a glass at a beach bar
A pink cocktail by candlelight in front of a lit bar
And then dinner.

The last day we swam to our boat on little floaties… a good dinner party story, to say the least.

Must do again

The Su Gologone portion of the trip was sensational, one of the more beautiful coastlines in the world, and three nights there was perfect. I would definitely suggest booking one of the superior rooms, going to the vegetable night, and eating in the traditional restaurant. The Sardinian red wine is fabulous! The hike was well worth it, too. To stand in the ruins of a village from B.C. is quite something.

Petra Segreta is FABULOUS. So much love and care is poured in by the couple who run it, and their lovely staff. For us, a night there before the market on Thursday would be enough. We’re water people, so next time I would scoot down to one of the hotels on the beach: Pitrizza, Cala di Volpe.

What I wore: the vacation closet

The address book

Where we stayed, and where I’d go next

Su Gologone

Three nights. Book a superior room, go to the vegetable night, eat in the traditional restaurant, and drink the Sardinian red.

Petra Segreta

Just above San Pantaleo. Run with so much love by the couple who own it. One night before the Thursday market is enough for us.

San Pantaleo market

Thursday morning. We raced there.

Next time: Hotel Pitrizza

We’re water people. Next time, one of the hotels on the beach: Pitrizza, or Cala di Volpe.

On the water

We swam to the boat on little floaties.

Further in

The drawing room at Heckfield Place, green sofas under a chandelier In Hampshire Heckfield Place My favorite layover, and a destination in itself. A rail of holiday clothes in pinks, yellow and white In the closet The Vacation Closet White linen trousers, two swimsuits, and one loose piece at a time. Tables and wicker chairs under a vine pergola in a whitewashed courtyard In Andalusia Falling for Trasierra A day that went wrong in every direction, and a table for two still waiting at half past midnight.